After some grueling travel back, I'm home. It's good to be here. Here's the breakdown of the final push to get home from Dubrovnik:
inter-city bus to the bus station
bus to airport
plane to London Gatwick
sleep at the airport on a very uncomfortable chair, hoping the guys patrolling with automatic rifles don't bother me
take a bus, then the underground to London Heathrow. Crazy traffic on the M1, so this took 3.5 hours
flight to Houston
flight to San Francisco
bart to Millbrae
Caltrain home
37 hours of traveling; not too fun, and I stink.
As I entered the US, I tried to keep my traveler's prospective, viewing it as a new country that I hadn't yet been to, in order to see what the US is like to a foreign traveler and see how we compare. Being around so many Americans, and being in a place where people speak English is strange after so many weeks of being away. The people here are certainly different. Perhaps it was just my personal elation at returning to my home country, but the atmosphere here is more casual and less frenetic than in Europe. Americans are friendly, people abroad will tell you. We can be proud of that and many other things here. We, for the most part, have the right checks and balances that are so lacking in some other countries, particularly in the Balkans. There is no need for a violent revolution. We have the systems in place to disseminate information through peaceful demonstrations and other means so that, when the time comes, the informed people can vote in fair elections.
Perhaps this is all easy to say in a country geographically isolated from conflict. We have drug cartels in Mexico vying for power and territory and causing some fear around the borders. But that's not a very big deal when you compare it to tensions on borders in the Balkans where Orthodox and Roman Catholic and Muslim people intersect, particularly the still-disputed Serbia-Kosovo border where Serbia (mostly Orthodox Serbs) doesn't recognize the Republic of Kosovo (mostly Muslim ethnic Albanians). There are tensions and border disputes in many other places as well. Even in Spain, where some Catalans want an independent Catalonia, and some Basques want an independent Basque Country.
The US has two borders for 300 million people. That's easy to deal with. European countries are small and most have borders with many countries, so there is a lot of room for tension. Also, there is more history, which means more historical quarrels to bring back up. Every nation wants to have the power that it did when it was at its zenith. Does that mean that Austria should have control over Croatia? And what about Macedonia, where territory has shifted between some six nations throughout history? Greece wants it back, but so do others. Maybe it will stay independent. It's interesting to note that these borders are purely political and often don't define where one culture or ethnicity ends and another begins. There is often a continuity across a border.
I used to think of Europe as so old, and the US as so new. Sure, there are old buildings and a lot of history in Europe, but the current governments and borders are relatively new. Borders are constantly in flux and there are often new countries being created. Italy, Germany, Belgium, and most European countries are technically newer than the US. The most recent thing to happen to the US is the statehood of Hawaii, and perhaps some things will change with Puerto Rico or various islands that we protect, but I can't see any hostile disputes and the borders with Canada and Mexico seem set in stone.
You really have to visit a place to get a healthy perspective on it. Reading the wikipedia article on a country, while a good place to start, won't allow you to feel the vibe of the place. Being in a new place, hearing the new strange language all around you and trying to use some of it, eating the food, talking with locals. These are all invaluable. And traveling is fun too! You get to meet lots of kinds of people and see cool stuff.
Everything here seems like a luxury after living the traveler's life. Sleeping in my big, soft bed. Shaving in front of a big mirror (bathroom mirrors in Europe are tiny). Being able to put my wallet in my back pocket and not worry about being robbed. Having a car. Knowing, every day, where I will sleep that night. Not having to pay to use the toilet. Being able to request a glass of water at a restaurant without getting weird looks. Buying food at reasonable prices. Eating well-rounded meals (no bread and cheese for months, please!). I got used to all these things, and could have, probably, gone on indefinitely as a travel bum as many do. But it's nice to be back.
There are many experiences I'll never forget. Eating tapas in Spain. Drinking home-made wine with an Estonian in Romania hearing crazy stories of her days working on a cruise ship. Sitting in the stands of the colosseum, like a Roman citizen. Traveling on a dilapidated communist-era train through Romania. Exploring the remote parts of a Greek island on an ATV. Getting caught in a protest at the G8 summit in London. Seeing a rave erupt around the old town in Milan on May Day. Swimming in the hot, steamy baths in Budapest while the cold rain came down. Looking, carefully out of the corner of my eye, at the devastation caused by the war in Mostar, Bosnia. Swimming in the clear, calm waters in Croatia. Walking through the meadows of Slovenia. Drinking with travelers from all over the world in various hostels. Walking, barefoot, through the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. Saying "thank you" in ten different languages. Trying, in general, to figure out all the forms of public transit through language barriers and all. It's been a long, crazy trip. Happy travels!
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Monday, June 15, 2009
Dubrovnik
Here it is, the last destination. Dubrovnik. After this, it's time to go home.
Ston, which was on the way to Dubrovnik, has a wall similar in function to the Great Wall of China, but much shorter. It's sufficient to see it through a bus window.
Dubrovnik was also hit by the conflicts here. This was earlier than the Bosnian War, though, when Croatia fought for its independence. The old town is beautifully restored; I didn't see any traces of damage at all.
Once again, we're staying in someone's living room, but it's okay. They are a bit over-hospitable. They are very nice, and keep trying to wash our dishes and feed us, but sometimes you just want your privacy. Their green beans and potatoes hit the spot though. The place is a short bus ride (or a medium walk) to the old town or to the beach. One of the women living here speaks French and not English, so it's nice to practice that a little.
Here's my favorite swimming spot on the whole trip. It's right next to the casino's hotel, so there's a knife-edge pool right up the stairs. If you look like you might be a guest, they don't bother you. The local kids know how to work the system. One will try, and get kicked out of the pool, but they hang out close and keep an eye on the lifeguard. One by one, they test him and jump in the pool and run away quickly. When more arrive, and the number of kids reaches critical mass, they are emboldened by their numbers and mob the pool. The lifeguard then gives up, and it's chaos with a bunch of kids splashing around in the pool. I think this happens every day after school. Even if you can't swim in the pool, there is nice, clear, deep water to swim in, rocks to jump off, and warm rocks to lay out on, if they aren't a bit sharp and uncomfortable. Right down the path is an actual beach as well. The kids play picigin there.
This enclosed saltwater lagoon was also nice. It's on the island of Lokrum. There's a little cave, and a rope swing, and some cliffs to jump off.
Also on the island are some nice looking cliffs. As I have said before, they seem to have a liberal definition of the word "beach" here. This place was marked as a beach on the map. You have to risk your life to get down to the water.
Here's a view of the city from the island.
Within the walls is the old town.
There was a sea of tourists there. This is the bridge going into the north gate. There's a drawbridge at the end.
This is the main street. It's full of shops, but the day we arrived, everything was closed due to a religious holiday. Even the grocery stores were closed.
I'm not sure why this arch is here over the water. That would be cool if the water cave extended underneath the city, and if there was a secret passageway in!
The harbor looks great. I keep thinking it would be awesome to rent a sailboat and sail around the Mediterranean, stopping in at these ports. At a lot of ports, the people who sail around all get together at night and party on someone's boat. They have their own culture, kinda like backpackers at a hostel.
I thought about going to Montenegro on a day trip to get one more country in (I'm at 13 on this trip) and to see the different (Serb-like?) culture there. But I decided instead on relaxing in the sun. Elaina is continuing on to Montenegro for her travels. I'm heading home.
Ston, which was on the way to Dubrovnik, has a wall similar in function to the Great Wall of China, but much shorter. It's sufficient to see it through a bus window.
Dubrovnik was also hit by the conflicts here. This was earlier than the Bosnian War, though, when Croatia fought for its independence. The old town is beautifully restored; I didn't see any traces of damage at all.
Once again, we're staying in someone's living room, but it's okay. They are a bit over-hospitable. They are very nice, and keep trying to wash our dishes and feed us, but sometimes you just want your privacy. Their green beans and potatoes hit the spot though. The place is a short bus ride (or a medium walk) to the old town or to the beach. One of the women living here speaks French and not English, so it's nice to practice that a little.
Here's my favorite swimming spot on the whole trip. It's right next to the casino's hotel, so there's a knife-edge pool right up the stairs. If you look like you might be a guest, they don't bother you. The local kids know how to work the system. One will try, and get kicked out of the pool, but they hang out close and keep an eye on the lifeguard. One by one, they test him and jump in the pool and run away quickly. When more arrive, and the number of kids reaches critical mass, they are emboldened by their numbers and mob the pool. The lifeguard then gives up, and it's chaos with a bunch of kids splashing around in the pool. I think this happens every day after school. Even if you can't swim in the pool, there is nice, clear, deep water to swim in, rocks to jump off, and warm rocks to lay out on, if they aren't a bit sharp and uncomfortable. Right down the path is an actual beach as well. The kids play picigin there.
This enclosed saltwater lagoon was also nice. It's on the island of Lokrum. There's a little cave, and a rope swing, and some cliffs to jump off.
Also on the island are some nice looking cliffs. As I have said before, they seem to have a liberal definition of the word "beach" here. This place was marked as a beach on the map. You have to risk your life to get down to the water.
Here's a view of the city from the island.
Within the walls is the old town.
There was a sea of tourists there. This is the bridge going into the north gate. There's a drawbridge at the end.
This is the main street. It's full of shops, but the day we arrived, everything was closed due to a religious holiday. Even the grocery stores were closed.
I'm not sure why this arch is here over the water. That would be cool if the water cave extended underneath the city, and if there was a secret passageway in!
The harbor looks great. I keep thinking it would be awesome to rent a sailboat and sail around the Mediterranean, stopping in at these ports. At a lot of ports, the people who sail around all get together at night and party on someone's boat. They have their own culture, kinda like backpackers at a hostel.
I thought about going to Montenegro on a day trip to get one more country in (I'm at 13 on this trip) and to see the different (Serb-like?) culture there. But I decided instead on relaxing in the sun. Elaina is continuing on to Montenegro for her travels. I'm heading home.
War-torn Mostar
We wanted to first go to Mostar in Bosnia-Herzegovina, but were told that we shouldn't try from Korčula - it would involve waiting on the side of the road in the town of Ston vigilantly watching for the right bus to flag down, which might not come at all. So, we came to Dubrovnik. Mostar, then, we did as a day trip. Let me talk about that first; you'll hear about Dubrovnik later.
Mostar is not really a day trip destination, though, and I think the driver was a little confused at our lack of baggage. It's 3.5 hours each way on a bus. We got up early and got back late, and spent more time on the bus than actually at Mostar, but it was worth it. Staying longer than we did wouldn't have been fun; I think we saw what we needed to see.
Our passports were checked seven times, without a single stamp. I wanted a Bosnian stamp! We had to cross six borders today because there is a thin stretch of land that belongs to Bosnia-Herzegovina that extends to the sea. You have to cross it on the way through. Croatia wants to make a bridge around, from the peninsula. The small bit of Bosnian coastline is all developed (it is all they have) while the surrounding Croatian coastline is relatively undeveloped.
Bosnia-Herzegovina is most definitely still recovering from the war fifteen years ago. There are some destitute looking houses along the road. Some of the people look pretty sad, and some of the beggars on the street appear to have been injured from the bombardment here during the war. Or possible since from leftover landmines.
Mostar, along with Sarajevo, was a battleground during the Bosnian War. The city is strictly divided along the river, which was the front line during the siege here. The east side is Bosniak and the west side is Croat.
Here is a simplification of things, as I understand them. Religion divides people here. Roman Catholic, Muslim, and Orthodox people don't always get along. They seemed to during Tito's rule when they were all united as Yugoslavia. But there is historical resentment between the cultures. As nationalist sentiment formed and the countries wanted independence from Yugoslavia, tensions arose between the different groups. Croats (Roman Catholic) and Serbs (Orthodox) live in parts of Bosnia-Herzegovina along with the Bosniaks (Muslim). A Croat is not necessarily a Croatian, but does identify with Croatia. Croatia wanted the parts of Bosnia-Herzegovina where Croats lived, so as to not leave them as a stranded minority, and Serbia wanted the parts with Serbs. Bosnia was just trying to hang on to its territory.
So, Mostar was both Bosniak and Croat, and still is. They live in a tense coexistence. It is, for all purposes, two cities divided by the river. The stoplights on the Croat side look more modern. The kiosks on the Bosniak side look rounded, like mosques. The schools are segregated. People stay on their side of the river, and usually don't have business on the other side.
Croatia bombarded the Bosniak side heavily during the siege. It is eerie to see these buildings, with obvious craters where they had been shelled, and lines of bullet holes riddling the plaster. When I first saw the buildings, it took a moment to sink in. I didn't want to stare, or have a local catch me looking. I tried to sneak some pictures, but it felt wrong, so I didn't get many. The locals seem to have gotten used to their presence, though the buildings seem like the "elephant in the room". No one talks about them. Or maybe they do; I didn't ask. Having this constant reminder must not help the tensions between the Croats and the Bosniaks. Or perhaps the Bosniaks want it that way: as a memorial. The first one I saw looked like it could have been a five-star hotel at one point. It was mostly destroyed, and the steel skeleton of the awning out front was still there, charred from fire. It looked like something from a movie. It was just fifteen years ago when snipers where perched on rooftops, and people had to sneak across the Old Bridge at night to get their supply of water. Here are some of the pictures I did get.
The Cejvan Cehaj Mosque, I think.
The only carefully restored structure in town is the historically significant Stari Most (Old Bridge). It's the only real tourist attraction in town. It was built by the Ottoman Turks. During the siege, the Bosniaks tied old tires to the bridge to try to protect it, but it didn't survive. Here it is. There's a nice swimming spot on the right (Bosniak) side, though the water is fast moving and very cold!
I didn't expect the trip to be so focused on the war destruction. I wasn't sure what to expect, but that's what caught my eye there. We're back in Dubrovnik now, though. It's not as hot here.
Mostar is not really a day trip destination, though, and I think the driver was a little confused at our lack of baggage. It's 3.5 hours each way on a bus. We got up early and got back late, and spent more time on the bus than actually at Mostar, but it was worth it. Staying longer than we did wouldn't have been fun; I think we saw what we needed to see.
Our passports were checked seven times, without a single stamp. I wanted a Bosnian stamp! We had to cross six borders today because there is a thin stretch of land that belongs to Bosnia-Herzegovina that extends to the sea. You have to cross it on the way through. Croatia wants to make a bridge around, from the peninsula. The small bit of Bosnian coastline is all developed (it is all they have) while the surrounding Croatian coastline is relatively undeveloped.
Bosnia-Herzegovina is most definitely still recovering from the war fifteen years ago. There are some destitute looking houses along the road. Some of the people look pretty sad, and some of the beggars on the street appear to have been injured from the bombardment here during the war. Or possible since from leftover landmines.
Mostar, along with Sarajevo, was a battleground during the Bosnian War. The city is strictly divided along the river, which was the front line during the siege here. The east side is Bosniak and the west side is Croat.
Here is a simplification of things, as I understand them. Religion divides people here. Roman Catholic, Muslim, and Orthodox people don't always get along. They seemed to during Tito's rule when they were all united as Yugoslavia. But there is historical resentment between the cultures. As nationalist sentiment formed and the countries wanted independence from Yugoslavia, tensions arose between the different groups. Croats (Roman Catholic) and Serbs (Orthodox) live in parts of Bosnia-Herzegovina along with the Bosniaks (Muslim). A Croat is not necessarily a Croatian, but does identify with Croatia. Croatia wanted the parts of Bosnia-Herzegovina where Croats lived, so as to not leave them as a stranded minority, and Serbia wanted the parts with Serbs. Bosnia was just trying to hang on to its territory.
So, Mostar was both Bosniak and Croat, and still is. They live in a tense coexistence. It is, for all purposes, two cities divided by the river. The stoplights on the Croat side look more modern. The kiosks on the Bosniak side look rounded, like mosques. The schools are segregated. People stay on their side of the river, and usually don't have business on the other side.
Croatia bombarded the Bosniak side heavily during the siege. It is eerie to see these buildings, with obvious craters where they had been shelled, and lines of bullet holes riddling the plaster. When I first saw the buildings, it took a moment to sink in. I didn't want to stare, or have a local catch me looking. I tried to sneak some pictures, but it felt wrong, so I didn't get many. The locals seem to have gotten used to their presence, though the buildings seem like the "elephant in the room". No one talks about them. Or maybe they do; I didn't ask. Having this constant reminder must not help the tensions between the Croats and the Bosniaks. Or perhaps the Bosniaks want it that way: as a memorial. The first one I saw looked like it could have been a five-star hotel at one point. It was mostly destroyed, and the steel skeleton of the awning out front was still there, charred from fire. It looked like something from a movie. It was just fifteen years ago when snipers where perched on rooftops, and people had to sneak across the Old Bridge at night to get their supply of water. Here are some of the pictures I did get.
The Cejvan Cehaj Mosque, I think.
The only carefully restored structure in town is the historically significant Stari Most (Old Bridge). It's the only real tourist attraction in town. It was built by the Ottoman Turks. During the siege, the Bosniaks tied old tires to the bridge to try to protect it, but it didn't survive. Here it is. There's a nice swimming spot on the right (Bosniak) side, though the water is fast moving and very cold!
I didn't expect the trip to be so focused on the war destruction. I wasn't sure what to expect, but that's what caught my eye there. We're back in Dubrovnik now, though. It's not as hot here.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Island life
We took the fast boat, the catamaran, to Korčula. That was probably a mistake. The departure was almost cancelled due to the storm, but the boat sailed as scheduled. The white-caps in the sea weren't encouraging. Once out of the protected harbor, the relatively small boat immediately began pitching and rolling around. The crew did his best to navigate the aisle and hand out barf bags without hurting himself, and he warned us all to seriously stay seated. We all tried to keep our spirits up, but it was extremely unpleasant, and I couldn't believe there were three more hours of it left. The boat was rising and falling like a roller coaster. We took bets on how many people would throw up. Just one, from our vantage point. It is good to be on stable land again!
Korčula is awesome! I seem to say this about every new place I get to, but I think Korčula is my favorite place yet. I have been wanting a relaxing place where I can sit out in the sun, and check out some sights in a new culture and be able to return to a relaxing room. That's what we got in Korčula. We got off the boat and were immediately mobbed by the people renting rooms. We told them all that we had a room in order to get them of our backs. Than, we approached the one we liked the best on our terms. She showed us to a great room. There is honestly no better location. Kitchen, internet, terrace, view. All for cheap. We ended up staying five nights. It was a great way to wind down the trip; it will be ending soon, which is sad, but I miss the states.
Korčula's old town is like a small version of the one in Split, minus Roman ruins. It's crammed into a peninsula. Within the walls and narrow, cobblestone pedestrian roads, people live and work. Restaurant tables spill into what little room there is in the street, and laundry hangs between buildings overhead. The clock tower rings every half hour, and the town's activity seems partly determined by the ferry schedule. You see the same people around town, most notably the hippie-looking guy that goes into the grocery store barefoot and runs the town hostel.
We went to beaches, which weren't great honestly, walked around a lot, and cooked some great meals. Though we want to stay longer, we better be off to Dubrovnik because there is still lots more to see and only four more days.
Walking around old town at night is great. Here's the church
I like these narrow streets.
Looking at old town, from the coast north of town.
The view from our window. This square is near the bottleneck of the peninsula.
This was supposedly where Marco Polo grew up. Croatia was part of the Venetian Republic, and Marco Polo probably came from this area, likely Korčula, but if you research it you will find that this house was built 100 years after he died. It's a tourist trap! They charge 15 kuna to get in. Many of the restaurants and shops are named after Marco Polo, and sell touristy merchandise based on him.
We splurged and went to see this dance called the Moreška. The dance dates back many years to Moorish influences in Spain. Scenes are acted out, depicting a chieftan winning a battle, and subsequently winning the girl. The dances between scenes, representing the battles, are done with swords, and they swing and hit them hard enough for sparks to fly off! It was pretty cool, but was ridiculously touristy. My favorite part was probably the singing at the beginning by a local choir.
Not a whole lot happened in Korčula, for spending five days here, and that's just how I like it.
Next, to Dubrovnik.
Korčula is awesome! I seem to say this about every new place I get to, but I think Korčula is my favorite place yet. I have been wanting a relaxing place where I can sit out in the sun, and check out some sights in a new culture and be able to return to a relaxing room. That's what we got in Korčula. We got off the boat and were immediately mobbed by the people renting rooms. We told them all that we had a room in order to get them of our backs. Than, we approached the one we liked the best on our terms. She showed us to a great room. There is honestly no better location. Kitchen, internet, terrace, view. All for cheap. We ended up staying five nights. It was a great way to wind down the trip; it will be ending soon, which is sad, but I miss the states.
Korčula's old town is like a small version of the one in Split, minus Roman ruins. It's crammed into a peninsula. Within the walls and narrow, cobblestone pedestrian roads, people live and work. Restaurant tables spill into what little room there is in the street, and laundry hangs between buildings overhead. The clock tower rings every half hour, and the town's activity seems partly determined by the ferry schedule. You see the same people around town, most notably the hippie-looking guy that goes into the grocery store barefoot and runs the town hostel.
We went to beaches, which weren't great honestly, walked around a lot, and cooked some great meals. Though we want to stay longer, we better be off to Dubrovnik because there is still lots more to see and only four more days.
Walking around old town at night is great. Here's the church
I like these narrow streets.
Looking at old town, from the coast north of town.
The view from our window. This square is near the bottleneck of the peninsula.
This was supposedly where Marco Polo grew up. Croatia was part of the Venetian Republic, and Marco Polo probably came from this area, likely Korčula, but if you research it you will find that this house was built 100 years after he died. It's a tourist trap! They charge 15 kuna to get in. Many of the restaurants and shops are named after Marco Polo, and sell touristy merchandise based on him.
We splurged and went to see this dance called the Moreška. The dance dates back many years to Moorish influences in Spain. Scenes are acted out, depicting a chieftan winning a battle, and subsequently winning the girl. The dances between scenes, representing the battles, are done with swords, and they swing and hit them hard enough for sparks to fly off! It was pretty cool, but was ridiculously touristy. My favorite part was probably the singing at the beginning by a local choir.
Not a whole lot happened in Korčula, for spending five days here, and that's just how I like it.
Next, to Dubrovnik.
Saturday, June 6, 2009
Split
We arrived in Split yesterday morning, and checked into our "accomodations" which consisted of someone's living room. It wasn't very private. Behind the TV were some live rounds, presumably left over from the war. I'm not sure I would want these around with kids in the house!
Split has two main things: the beaches and Diocletian's Palace. Split was Roman emperor Diocletian's hometown, and he built this palace here around 300 AD.
Along with the remains of the palace itself, the inner core of the city within the palace walls is also full of other buildings that have been constructed since. It's a living, breathing city in there, full of shops and houses, with laundry hanging up between buildings. Walking around, I am reminded a bit of Venice by the narrow pedestrian streets and maze-like layout. I suppose this may be because Croatia was part of the Venetian republic, and this area was influenced by their culture.
And, this reminded me of San Marco Square in Venice.
Here's the boardwalk.
There's a great market next to the palace, where we bought our produce. The arugula was really spicy! I've been snacking on a bag of figs I bought here.
It was too cold to go swimming at the beach, but we showed up for a picigin tournament in the morning. Picigin is a casual, fun game played in shallow water in Croatia. I found a picigin ball, and I'm bringing it back to the states to see if I can get some people to play! Though, the waters in California might not be calm enough. Here's how it's played. The ball (like a soft tennis ball) is hit with the hand, and it can't touch the water. It's like hackey sack. Sometimes you have to dive for the ball and make a dramatic save and a big splash. That's where the fun comes in. Show-offs make an overly dramatic dive and splash every time they get the ball. Having a tournament is a bit strange though; I'm not sure how they judge it. The game is just a casual fun thing that kids go down to the beach and play for a bit after school's out.
So far, most of the Slovenian words I learned are exactly the same in Croatian. The language was called Serbo-Croatian, and was the official language of Yugoslavia. It was really a mix of all the slavic dialects spoken in the Balkans, officially compiled into a language that could help unify Yugoslavia. Since Croatia's split with Yugoslavia, they have tried to distance themselves and take the language back to its Croatian roots, so it was renamed Croatian. Words were artificially changed and there are new words that have been injected into the vocabulary. I'm not sure who makes these new words up.
Croatia's nice. I've heard people say it's laid-back, and like the Hawaii of Europe. I don't know if it's possible to get as chill as Hawaii, but I can see the connection. There also seems to be an Italian influence here. We'll see how the atmosphere changes on an island. The island of Korcula is where we are headed next.
Split has two main things: the beaches and Diocletian's Palace. Split was Roman emperor Diocletian's hometown, and he built this palace here around 300 AD.
Along with the remains of the palace itself, the inner core of the city within the palace walls is also full of other buildings that have been constructed since. It's a living, breathing city in there, full of shops and houses, with laundry hanging up between buildings. Walking around, I am reminded a bit of Venice by the narrow pedestrian streets and maze-like layout. I suppose this may be because Croatia was part of the Venetian republic, and this area was influenced by their culture.
And, this reminded me of San Marco Square in Venice.
Here's the boardwalk.
There's a great market next to the palace, where we bought our produce. The arugula was really spicy! I've been snacking on a bag of figs I bought here.
It was too cold to go swimming at the beach, but we showed up for a picigin tournament in the morning. Picigin is a casual, fun game played in shallow water in Croatia. I found a picigin ball, and I'm bringing it back to the states to see if I can get some people to play! Though, the waters in California might not be calm enough. Here's how it's played. The ball (like a soft tennis ball) is hit with the hand, and it can't touch the water. It's like hackey sack. Sometimes you have to dive for the ball and make a dramatic save and a big splash. That's where the fun comes in. Show-offs make an overly dramatic dive and splash every time they get the ball. Having a tournament is a bit strange though; I'm not sure how they judge it. The game is just a casual fun thing that kids go down to the beach and play for a bit after school's out.
So far, most of the Slovenian words I learned are exactly the same in Croatian. The language was called Serbo-Croatian, and was the official language of Yugoslavia. It was really a mix of all the slavic dialects spoken in the Balkans, officially compiled into a language that could help unify Yugoslavia. Since Croatia's split with Yugoslavia, they have tried to distance themselves and take the language back to its Croatian roots, so it was renamed Croatian. Words were artificially changed and there are new words that have been injected into the vocabulary. I'm not sure who makes these new words up.
Croatia's nice. I've heard people say it's laid-back, and like the Hawaii of Europe. I don't know if it's possible to get as chill as Hawaii, but I can see the connection. There also seems to be an Italian influence here. We'll see how the atmosphere changes on an island. The island of Korcula is where we are headed next.
Friday, June 5, 2009
Another night train
We didn't stay long in Ljubljana, but stopped through it on the way to Split, Croatia. We also had a layover in Zagreb, Croatia on the way. These night trains really save on accomodations costs! The first leg of the journey was a bus to Ljubljana. The city is small enough to have an intimate feel - there are only 250,000 residents. It's strange to have such a small city as the capitol of a country. We would our way along the river, crossing over each bridge, in order to explore the city.
The most interesting bridge is the Dragon Bridge, which has statues of dragons on each side, guarding it. The dragon is the symbol of the city, and appears throughout.
I was told that one thing I had to do here was eat a horseburger at Red'n'Hot Horse. It was ok.
I think this is the Triple Bridge...?
Then, we went up the hill to check out the castle and the view from up there. It rained hard for about a half hour, so we took shelter in a playground under some trees for a while. It's a nice city; I'm glad we stopped here.
The next stop was Zagreb. It was a similar situation as in Salzburg: a quick layover at night. We lugged our packs through town, which is thankfully near the train station.
Here's the cathedral, close up. You can't tell, but it's an impressive structure with tall gothic spires.
Here's the main square.
There was a traditional music and dance competition, so we watched for a while. It looked Irish-inspired. There were lots of people out and about. After the competition ended, people filed into the nearby bars.
Then, back on the train to Split, where we are now.
The most interesting bridge is the Dragon Bridge, which has statues of dragons on each side, guarding it. The dragon is the symbol of the city, and appears throughout.
I was told that one thing I had to do here was eat a horseburger at Red'n'Hot Horse. It was ok.
I think this is the Triple Bridge...?
Then, we went up the hill to check out the castle and the view from up there. It rained hard for about a half hour, so we took shelter in a playground under some trees for a while. It's a nice city; I'm glad we stopped here.
The next stop was Zagreb. It was a similar situation as in Salzburg: a quick layover at night. We lugged our packs through town, which is thankfully near the train station.
Here's the cathedral, close up. You can't tell, but it's an impressive structure with tall gothic spires.
Here's the main square.
There was a traditional music and dance competition, so we watched for a while. It looked Irish-inspired. There were lots of people out and about. After the competition ended, people filed into the nearby bars.
Then, back on the train to Split, where we are now.
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Lake Bled
The train options from Budapest to the next place we decided to go, Bled, Slovenia, were very limited. So, we had to take a train to Salzburg, Austria and change there. The train was very nice, since it was an Austrian one. I've been used to busses and rickety Eastern European trains. I was actually able to get some sleep. Not all the cars on the train go to the same place, and we found out the hard way. I became concerned when everyone got out of the car and we were the only ones left. It was the end of the line for that car, it turns out. We had to scramble off the train, with our belongings loose in our arms, and find the platform that the other, disconnected, cars had gone to. It all worked out, though.
When we got to Salzburg, we decided to take full advantage of the two hour layover and explore some. Four hours would have been much nicer. All we could do was run with our fifty-pound packs from the train station towards the historical center. We made it to the bridge, where we could see the castle and other old stuff lit up at night in the distance. Then, after five minutes, we had to run back to catch the train south to Slovenia. The people in Salzburg obviously have a lot of money; it's very nice. I'm not really going to any of the expensive countries on this trip, but this is what I imagine it's like elsewhere in Austria, Switzerland and Germany.
The place we're staying at in Bled is an old, drafty hotel. The heater looks like it's from the 1900's. This is a good budget option in this expensive tourist destination, though. It's a picturesque town in the Julian Alps on a lake with an island - the only island in Slovenia actually. The island has a church on it. Europeans sure have a knack for putting churches in inconvenient locations. This is not the first one I've seen alone on an island.
There is a castle on the hill, overlooking the lake as well as the surrounding meadows on the other side.
Here is the castle from the other side.
There is also a ski resort here in the winter, which turns into what they call "summer tobogganing" in the summer. It's a downhill rollercoaster right on the ski slope. You get to the top via ski lifts.
The country of Slovenia is tiny. The capitol, Ljubljana, is the only real big city. By the way, the letter J is pronounced like a Y in slavic languages. Almost all industry is in Ljubljana, and it is within commuting distance of the entire country. So most people that live outsive the city commute in; I hear the rush hour traffic is pretty bad.
The iconic image that represents Slovenia is the ever-present hay racks, used for storing and drying out hay.
It's a beautiful, relaxed country. I'm told it feels just like Austria except for the slavic language. It is very western here. They are part of the EU and use the Euro. They were the wealthiest, most western (literally and figuratively) part of Yugoslavia, and split off first, and peacefully.
Walking through the meadows with the alps in the background is amazing. There are many hiking trails through the forest. We walked north across the plain to the next town, which is on the river at the mouth of the Vintgar Gorge. A wooden footpath was built to allow people to walk through this gorge. There are waterfalls and some nice swimming holes. I'm reminded of the Yuba river back home.
We took a trail to a remote farming villiage, and walked around a bit.
They seem to live very simply, except for the very nice tractors and farm equipment that are parked in front of even the most modest of homes. That's a change from Romania, where they still use horse power.
The individual beehives here are painted different colors, supposedly so the bees can find their way home.
We took a different route back to Bled, over the mountain, with a nice view of the surrounding towns.
When we got to Salzburg, we decided to take full advantage of the two hour layover and explore some. Four hours would have been much nicer. All we could do was run with our fifty-pound packs from the train station towards the historical center. We made it to the bridge, where we could see the castle and other old stuff lit up at night in the distance. Then, after five minutes, we had to run back to catch the train south to Slovenia. The people in Salzburg obviously have a lot of money; it's very nice. I'm not really going to any of the expensive countries on this trip, but this is what I imagine it's like elsewhere in Austria, Switzerland and Germany.
The place we're staying at in Bled is an old, drafty hotel. The heater looks like it's from the 1900's. This is a good budget option in this expensive tourist destination, though. It's a picturesque town in the Julian Alps on a lake with an island - the only island in Slovenia actually. The island has a church on it. Europeans sure have a knack for putting churches in inconvenient locations. This is not the first one I've seen alone on an island.
There is a castle on the hill, overlooking the lake as well as the surrounding meadows on the other side.
Here is the castle from the other side.
There is also a ski resort here in the winter, which turns into what they call "summer tobogganing" in the summer. It's a downhill rollercoaster right on the ski slope. You get to the top via ski lifts.
The country of Slovenia is tiny. The capitol, Ljubljana, is the only real big city. By the way, the letter J is pronounced like a Y in slavic languages. Almost all industry is in Ljubljana, and it is within commuting distance of the entire country. So most people that live outsive the city commute in; I hear the rush hour traffic is pretty bad.
The iconic image that represents Slovenia is the ever-present hay racks, used for storing and drying out hay.
It's a beautiful, relaxed country. I'm told it feels just like Austria except for the slavic language. It is very western here. They are part of the EU and use the Euro. They were the wealthiest, most western (literally and figuratively) part of Yugoslavia, and split off first, and peacefully.
Walking through the meadows with the alps in the background is amazing. There are many hiking trails through the forest. We walked north across the plain to the next town, which is on the river at the mouth of the Vintgar Gorge. A wooden footpath was built to allow people to walk through this gorge. There are waterfalls and some nice swimming holes. I'm reminded of the Yuba river back home.
We took a trail to a remote farming villiage, and walked around a bit.
They seem to live very simply, except for the very nice tractors and farm equipment that are parked in front of even the most modest of homes. That's a change from Romania, where they still use horse power.
The individual beehives here are painted different colors, supposedly so the bees can find their way home.
We took a different route back to Bled, over the mountain, with a nice view of the surrounding towns.
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